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John Daniels
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Posted: Tue Aug 26th, 2008 11:09 pm |
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| I have a stupid question. But being new to Parker shotguns I will go ahead and ask it. Is it safe to shoot modern ammunition through Parker shotguns? I have asked about the differant barrel types and so on, but I guess the real base of my question is whether or not they are safe to use with modern ammo. Thanks
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Destry Hoffard
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Posted: Tue Aug 26th, 2008 11:23 pm |
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The short answer is, if it's got fluid steel barrels then fire away.
Don't go crazy and shoot super heavy duty magnum loads or you might crack a stock.
This coming from the guy that shoots super duper 3 1/2 magnum loads through his 10 gauge Parker and did crack the stock. She's fixed now though, and shouldn't crack again.
Destry
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Dean Romig
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Posted: Wed Aug 27th, 2008 01:09 am |
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| Heavy ammo can also be the cause of "shooting your Parker loose." In other words, continuous use of magnum loads will eventually distort or flatten the mating surfaces of hinge joints causing the gun to become loose and off-face. eavy loads aren't necessary except in pass shooting larger waterfowl.
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Cooper Smith
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Posted: Wed Aug 27th, 2008 02:19 am |
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John - I prefer light loads for the same reasons already given - they don't beat up the gun or me. To keep it simple, I order 2 1/2" 28gram loads from RST...lovely shells. I believe pressures of the RST loads are in the 6,000/7,000psi range. No problem shooting them in an 1889 16ga. hammer Parker with Twist steel barrels, or my 1904 GH 12ga. with damascus steel barrels. Although I could shoot something heavier in my 1916 Parker with Titanic Steel barrels, I still prefer the low pressure RST shells. Others here can lead you to other brands as well as reloading specs. if you'd like to "roll" your own.
Enjoy! 
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Drew Hause MD
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Posted: Wed Aug 27th, 2008 02:51 am |
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Noooo Destry-say it ain't so!!!  When did YOU become the voice of reason??
I just love posting this pic of Destry's cracked stock  PS-won't be at the Vintagers so you'll have to wait til The Southern for payback
Last edited on Wed Aug 27th, 2008 02:52 am by Drew Hause MD
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Destry Hoffard
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Posted: Wed Aug 27th, 2008 02:58 am |
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Eh, I don't care Preacher, I just consider the source.
That was another gun actually, Hambridge didn't fix the 10 gauge.
Destry
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John Daniels
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Posted: Wed Aug 27th, 2008 02:59 am |
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| So would a Winchester AA 2 3/4 in. 1 1/8 oz. light target load be safe in just about any Parker?
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Destry Hoffard
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Posted: Wed Aug 27th, 2008 03:05 am |
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Oh yeah, those should work just fine for clays and stuff.
What do you hunt mainly?
Destry
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John Daniels
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Posted: Wed Aug 27th, 2008 03:21 am |
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| I mainly hunt pheasant, but will chase quail on occasion. I prefer a load of #6's for pheasant. However, The Parker that I purchase will be used for clay target shooting. I've really taken an interest in the s x s shoots that I have read about recently in the Shooting Sportsman. This will be my first s x s so depending on how well I like it I may consider purchasing a 16 ga. to use for bird hunting.
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Dean Romig
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Posted: Wed Aug 27th, 2008 03:27 am |
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John, will you please tell us the frame size of your Parker and what it has for barrels, e.g. Trojan, Vulcan, Titanic, Damascus, Twist, etc. ? I think we are laboring under the presumption that your barrels are fluid steel.
Thanks, Dean
Last edited on Wed Aug 27th, 2008 03:28 am by Dean Romig
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Destry Hoffard
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Posted: Wed Aug 27th, 2008 03:33 am |
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| That was my first post Dean, I said "if it's got fluid steel barrels" so yeah....
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John Daniels
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Posted: Wed Aug 27th, 2008 06:54 pm |
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| I dont own a Parker yet. I'm trying to gather information so I can purchase a gun that will best fit the shooting I intend to do. I hear about all these differant types of barrels and frame sizes on Parkers and its a little confusing. I'm asking all these questions so that I will know what I want and what will be the safest. I guess the bottom line is that I want to know what type of barrel would be the best and safest for target shooting. Thanks
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Bruce Day
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Posted: Wed Aug 27th, 2008 07:15 pm |
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John Daniels wrote: I want to know what type of barrel would be the best and safest for target shooting. Thanks
A heavy barrelled 12 ga, 2 frame 30" or if you are tall, 32". A novice is usually more comfortable with fluid steel. Pick any fluid steel, Vulcan through Acme. You want about an 8 lb gun and if it has a recoil pad , all the better. Last edited on Wed Aug 27th, 2008 07:17 pm by Bruce Day
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John Daniels
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Posted: Wed Aug 27th, 2008 07:28 pm |
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Thanks for the advice Bruce. So I will look for something with a 2" frame and fluid steel barrels. I'm on the short side of things and I prefer the feel of a 28" barrel. Can I get a 28" barrel on a 2" frame? Also, I have been told to look for a VH as they are the most abundant. Is a VH available in this combination? How about a Trojan?
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Bill Murphy
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Posted: Wed Aug 27th, 2008 08:36 pm |
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| Yeah, Trojan or VH. #2 frame is all that is available in a Trojan. A #2 or a #1 1/2 frame would be great in a VH. You may be lucky and find a VHE ejector gun at a reasonable price. You should be looking for a gun that shows some sign of low usage if possible, like visible original case hardening color, good wood to metal fit with no sign of the dismantling of the gun, especially the wood from the metal. If the trigger plate shows signs of being dismantled from the receiver, make sure it went back perfectly without damage. Make sure the bores on a post 1900 gun are about .730 in diameter or a couple of thousandths more at the most. Measure the chokes and make sure that there is enough there that you are not suspecting a cut off gun. The blank space at the end of the rib matting should be there. If it is not there, the bores and chokes must be measured very closely and the Serialization Book or the PGCA historian should be consulted to make sure the gun is of the original barrel length. Don't be afraid to buy a Trojan Grade. A Trojan Grade in medium to high original condition is a real find. Most will be 30" barrels and condition is what you should be looking for. A high condition Trojan 12 gauge recently sold for almost $11,000.00, yes, thousand. Some in lesser condition are still available for $750.00. That is an illustration of what condition means in the Parker market. A recoil pad installation on a Trojan or VH Grade gun will devalue it a bit, but not enough to make such a gun a bad deal if everything else is OK. There are many of these guns out there, you don't have to buy a bad one. If you buy a fairly good one, you will be rewarded with a gun that will last for a hundred years without attention and will be worth more than you paid for it almost immediately. Last edited on Wed Aug 27th, 2008 08:40 pm by Bill Murphy
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John Daniels
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Posted: Wed Aug 27th, 2008 10:33 pm |
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| Thanks alot for all the info Bill. I wouldnt mind finding a Trojan or VH and having it restored either. However, I want to make sure it is restored to original specs.
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Destry Hoffard
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Posted: Wed Aug 27th, 2008 10:40 pm |
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Then you'll just have 10 times more in it than it's worth.
Buy one that you can live with as far as condition.
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Bill Murphy
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Posted: Wed Aug 27th, 2008 11:04 pm |
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| Yeah, Destry is right. A professional restoration is very expensive these days and seldom comes out perfect. It is easier to find a restored gun or a gun in medium high condition than it is to write the check for a proper restoration. By the way, I have a high condition Trojan that was worth way less than the ridiculously high $1400 I paid for it about five years ago. Today, I wouldn't take seven grand for it. Keep your nose to the ground.
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