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Chuck Bishop
PGCA Member
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Posted: Tue Aug 26th, 2008 03:45 pm |
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I'd like to replace the DHBP with a recoil pad but retain the original shape of the butt. The reason to do this is that I currently use a Galco type pad over the stock but it seems to slip on my shoulder especially when shooting doubles.
What I was thinking of doing was making a tapered spacer using something like Acraglas then mount a thin recoil pad on the back of the spacer. If I could make a small rectangular box slightly bigger than the end of the stock, fill it deep enough with Acraglas, then lower the stock into the mold and let it harden, this would give me the proper curve and fit against the wood. The recoil pad could be glued to the spacer and the entire assembly fitted just like a normal recoil pad installation. My only concern is protecting the wood and getting the Acraglas to release once it's fully hardened.
Has anyone tried this or have any other suggestions?
Last edited on Tue Aug 26th, 2008 03:51 pm by Chuck Bishop
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Chuck Bishop
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Bruce Day
PGCA Member
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Posted: Tue Aug 26th, 2008 04:40 pm |
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Glue sandpaper to the slip on pad, rough up the leather surface with sandpaper or use that spray on sticky hands stuff that football receivers use. Why mess up a nice original DHBP.
I used coarse sandpaper to rough the surface on a slip on pad. Works fine.
Last edited on Tue Aug 26th, 2008 04:46 pm by Bruce Day
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Bruce Day
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Chuck Bishop
PGCA Member
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Posted: Tue Aug 26th, 2008 04:54 pm |
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| Bruce, the DHBP would be taken off and saved. The molded spacer/recoil pad would take it's place. The original shape of the butt would not be altered and the DHBP could be put back on to bring it back to original condition.
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Chuck Bishop
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Cooper Smith
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Posted: Tue Aug 26th, 2008 04:54 pm |
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Chuck,
Check out Pete Kogut at http://www.doublegunshop.com/doubleguncases.htm
He promotes a classic English style leather covered pad that is applied with a removeable adhesive allowing you to add a pad without modifying the original stock wood or butt plate. Although I can't speak from personal experience, he apparently has a solid reputation and attends the Vintagers events, so I'd think he's worth checking out. Of course if a reduction in L.O.P. is needed, Koguts system probably wouldn't work well. But since you're already using a slip on pad extension it may be your answer. Please let us know what you find out.
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paul harm
PGCA Member
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Posted: Tue Aug 26th, 2008 04:56 pm |
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| I use the simple rubber slip on pads- they seem to work better and don't slip- but don't look as nice. Paul
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Bill Murphy
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Posted: Tue Aug 26th, 2008 05:21 pm |
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Chuck, if you want a permanent looking pad, but want it installed on the curve of the butt, and want the widow's peak filled in, that's the way you should do it. A pad can be bent to fit the curve by using heated water. The bent pad can be screwed to the butt. The pad is then ground to a perfect fit. Black Acraglas is used to fill in the widow's peak. If the pad shows signs of breaking away from the butt, it must be assisted with glue. The glue should not extend to the edge of the pad. Some substance, like paste wax, must be used to insure that the Acraglass can be removed from the stock if needed. I have had pads installed on the curve with good results. Your idea of a curved, tapered spacer is fine except that it will look like a curved, tapered spacer. It is better to bend the pad so the spacer is no thicker than the spacer originally part of the pad.
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Greg Baehman
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Posted: Tue Aug 26th, 2008 11:04 pm |
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Chuck, you don't mention whether or not the DHBP has the widow's peak.
A Galazan "Correct Period Pad" is flexible enough to take up the curvature of the butt with just the screw pressure---no need for heat or anything else, this pad is furnished with a widow's peak. If your gun has a widow's peak DHBP, I am not sure how close the two will match up right out of the package---it may require some precise handwork if you're fussy. If your gun doesn't have the widow's peak the "Correct Period Pad" widow's peak is easily sanded off.
I believe it was Austin Hogan (or was it someone else?) who had a tutorial on this BBS within the last couple of years showing how to fill in the widow's peak area with wood and installing a pad so the gun could be brought back to original if wanted.
Here's a pic of a Correct Period Pad installed on the butt curvature of a Trojan. I didn't even have to drill new holes in the stock to install the pad--the pads holes were on the same centers as the original gun.
Last edited on Wed Aug 27th, 2008 02:09 am by Greg Baehman
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Austin W Hogan
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Posted: Wed Aug 27th, 2008 02:07 am |
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I have fitted both the "Correct Period Pad" and the "Hawkins Replica" to 3 Parkers each without cutting the stock. Soak the pad in hot water, and the black hard rubber base will bend to conform with the stock arc. Apply rubber cement liberally to the butt, and base of the pad before final mounting. In my case, fitting the pad this way provides the extra 3/4 inch of pull most Parker stocks need to fit me.
I thought I could shoot a Galco pad fairly well for a number of years, but then I realized that 90% of my misses were due to bad mounts. The "correct period pad" is much better, but the Hawkins provides by far the best mounts for me. The original DHBP probably worked well on the wool shirts and real leather hunting vest pads, but they are like ball bearings on most modern vests. I have yet to learn how to mount a skeleton steel butt plate gun.
NOTE ADDED; It was not the surface of the Galco Pad that was a problem; it was a problem of requiring several hundred rounds for the pad to settle in again if it was disturbed. The zip on pad is a good solution for guns used occassionally, but a pad is best on a gun you shoot regularly with modern clothing.
Best, Austin
Last edited on Wed Aug 27th, 2008 01:15 pm by Austin W Hogan
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Tom Bria
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Posted: Wed Aug 27th, 2008 05:31 am |
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| No pics available, but I have had a couple of spurred Parkers fitted with pads to extend LOP without altering the stock or the original DHBP. Keith Kearcher did a VH Infallible for me, and Freddy Brunner did a hammer G. Both used black epoxy (probably Acraglas) and release agent to fill in the spur mortise, and both did very nice work. Neither gun is a collector piece (yet) but I can shoot them comfortably and return to original if necessary. None of the pads that come with a spur will fit the Parker mortise, so forget about getting a clean fit without black epoxy. If done right, it looks like it came from the factory that way.
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David Hamilton
PGCA Member
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Posted: Wed Aug 27th, 2008 06:30 pm |
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| I have a DH from the turn of the last century that came from the factory with a Slivers pad. The pad was deteriorated. I ordered a replacement from Silvers in England. It came in 5 days and cost $55. including shipping and fit perfectly. David
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Greg Baehman
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Posted: Wed Aug 27th, 2008 11:02 pm |
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I am not sure if Galazan has changed the compound of his Correct Perod Pad recently or not. I see no need to use hot water, heat or anything else to help this pad conform to a curved butt.
I am attaching a pic of a recently purchased Correct Period Pad I purchased from Galazan showing its flexibilty. This pad has been sitting in a drawer at room temp. The black portion is only slightly stiffer than the orange portion---this material is very unlike the black hard rubber (or is it plastic?) used on S.W. Silver's pads where heat would be required to conform.
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Bill Murphy
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Posted: Wed Aug 27th, 2008 11:10 pm |
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| Thanks for the information, Greg. That looks like the pad to use on a curved butt. The pad on the Trojan looks great but it doesn't look like an orange pad, looks more brick red. Is it the same pad that you showed the picture of to illustrate the bent base? That one looks orange. I just had a pair of D Grades, 12 and 20, repadded with brand new brown No Shocs and they look just fantastic. However, new brown No Shocs are a little hard to find. By the way, the D Grades are almost identical mid twenties Meriden guns, loaded up with color and, oddly, stocked at the factory in fancy American Walnut. They look like two peas in a pod, the 20 a 26" DHE and the 12 an original 29" DH. I'll probably go broke casing them together in an FEI oak and leather case. Last edited on Wed Aug 27th, 2008 11:16 pm by Bill Murphy
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Dave Fuller
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Posted: Thu Aug 28th, 2008 01:42 am |
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Last edited on Thu Aug 28th, 2008 01:44 am by Dave Fuller
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Dave Fuller
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Posted: Thu Aug 28th, 2008 01:43 am |
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| I put this pad on with the spur. Its a Galazan pad but the gun is not a Parker. I like the way it looks and there is no filler material (sorry I know I've posted this at least once already). Attached Image (viewed 356 times):
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Bill Murphy
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Posted: Thu Aug 28th, 2008 02:12 am |
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| Nice. I had a VH project gun padded with a G&H repro Silvers with spur. It looks just like yours. It was done at Lefever Arms Company many moons ago.
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Austin W Hogan
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Posted: Thu Aug 28th, 2008 03:26 am |
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That Galazan "Period" Pad is certainly more limber than those of the past.
Best, Austin
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Greg Baehman
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Posted: Thu Aug 28th, 2008 03:27 am |
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Bill...both pads are the Corrrect Period Pad from Galazan's, bought at the same time and were identical in color. I tried to "age" the pad on the Trojan a bit by applying vaseline and hand buffing it with cotton rag.
Incidentally, I bought four Silver's pads (two orange and two red) direct from Kynoch in England ($192 plus some change including shipping) at about the same time as I bought the Galazan pads. The Galazan pads are definitely softer and will do a better job of taming recoil than the original Silver's pads. The color of the Galazan CPP orange pads are virtually identical--just the slightest shade lighter in color than the Silver's original orange pads. The compound of the pad itself is not as dense on the Galazan's as is the Silver's.
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Chuck Bishop
PGCA Member
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Posted: Thu Aug 28th, 2008 12:33 pm |
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Thanks for all the replies, that's what makes this forum so great.
Yes, the DHBP has a spur. The flexable repro Silvers I doubt would work. When mounted on the curved butt, I doubt that the center of the pad would stay flush with the wood due to way the screw holes are drilled in the pad. This would mean either drilling an extra screw hole in the center of the pad, or glueing the pad along with the screws. I don't want to do that, I want it easily removed.
I think instead of making the spacer out of AcraGlas, I'm going to try a 1/4" spacer. The depth of the curve on the wood is about 1/8" at it's deepest in the center. Once mounted on the wood, a recoil pad could then be epoxied to the and the entire assembly ground to fit. The widows peak could be filled with black AcraGlas to complete the project.
Two questions I have. If a spacer is heated up enough to make it flexable and bent to shape, will it hold it's shape when it returns to room temperature? Second question is what is the best releasing agent to use when using AcraGlas on wood. AcraGlas is made to bond with wood, not release from it. I don't want to screw this up!
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Chuck Bishop
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paul harm
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Posted: Sun Aug 31st, 2008 09:48 pm |
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| I use car wax as a release or the release agent that comes with Acraglas. Also, you can heat the pad with a ladies hair dryer and hold it tigtly to the butt [ with some rags to protect your hands]. It will stay bent but may spring back some. If it does a reheat and some thin cardboard spacers on the heel and toe so it's bent a bit more than necessary will help correct the problem. Good luck - Paul
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Bill Murphy
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Posted: Mon Sep 1st, 2008 05:02 pm |
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| The ones I have done, glued or otherwise, were overbent so that the middle of the pad at the crest of the curve does not come away from the wood. Paul's suggestion of car wax is what I have used as a release agent. If you want to use the tapered spacer, that's fine, but it will look like a tapered spacer.
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